REEF BALL MOLD SYSTEMS TRAINING MANUAL-
Not a substitute for training but a supplement to training.

© 1995/1996/1997/1998/1999/2000/2001/2002/2006
 Reef Ball Foundation Inc.
All Rights Reserved.
DUPLICATION IN ANY FORM NOT PERMITTED

Trademark, Patent Protection and Copyright Notice:

Combo Ball, Goliath Ball, Super Ball, Ultra Ball, Reef Ball, Pallet Ball, Bay Ball, Mini-Bay Ball, Lo Pro Ball, Oyster Ball, Model Ball and RBDG Logo are trademarks of Reef Ball Foundation Inc., construction techniques, and Swiss cheese hole patterns are Patented or Patent Pending.  All sizes of Reef Balls are copyrighted 1994 (Reg. No. TXu 630-706) which is recognized internationally except in Iran. This manual was first published 7/4/95 and has been updated most recently in June 22, 2006

 INTRODUCTION

Reef Ball mold systems are designed to create stable artificial reef modules that have variable sizes, shapes, hole sizes, hole patterns, hole shapes, surface textures and weights. Molds are also designed to accommodate a variety of concrete mix designs. Our research has concluded that variety is one important factor in creating a reef with good species diversity. Although your goals may be different, the Reef Ball Foundation Inc. measures the success of our reefs by the number of species and their density that use Reef Ball reefs versus the number of species and their density that use the natural reefs in the same environment. Although learning how to use the mold to consistently produce usable modules is easy, it is an art and takes practice to perfect the techniques that produce unique and interesting modules.  It takes even more training to become very efficient at making Reef Balls, such as in the case of an Authorized Reef Ball contractor where many time saving techniques are allowed which we don't suggest for regular mold users due to the more technical nature and higher level of error potential.  However, even "failures" are not usually no that bad and can often be used as reef material. As long as the bottom base of concrete remains intact, modules produced by our molds will still have the same stable characteristics as "perfect" modules. First, learn to perfect the basic casting techniques. Remember that concrete is like a cake mix. One must have a good recipe, mix the batter correctly, bake at the right temperature and cool the cake properly in order to make a nice cake. Short cuts can sometimes still make an edible cake, but too many changes can doom one to disaster. The same is true for Reef Balls. Also remember SAFETY first.

At the Reef Ball Foundation Inc., we have now made more than 1/2 a million Reef Balls in over 3,500 projects...and there are nearly as many ways to build a Reef Ball.  So please understand that there are many ways to use your molds, up to 9 different styles are possible with a Reef Ball mold.  Just ask and we can help guide you to use them in ways that best meet the goals of your project....We strongly recommend initial on-site training for all of our clients...so we better understand exactly the goals and conditions you are working with to offer you the best possible advise.

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES RECCOMMENDED

FOR BUILDING WOOD BASES

FOR ATTACHMENT ADAPTERS

§       1/4" Drill bit (for attachment adapter assembly)

§       Phillips screwdriver

  

 

FOR CASTING and DEMOLDING

FOR MOVING REEF BALLS AROUND

FOR FLOATING DEPLOYMENTS

FOR BARGE DEPLOYMENTS

FOR MOLD SET UP, CHANGES AND MAINTENANCE

For Coral Transplant or Propagation
(Please refer to A Step by Step Guide to Reef Restoration Manual for any coral work)

Antibacterial Soap: RBF Coral Team members must wash their hands between each unique coral colony they touch with an antibacterial soap.  However, not all sites have fresh water facilities to get a clean rinse so team members often use surgery rated products that offer a clean rinse.  An example is LAGASSE, INC.’s “Antibacterial Lotion Soap” Contains 0.3% Chloroxylenol (PCMX), a broad-spectrum degerming agent and offers gentle cleansing with a clean rinse.

 

Alcohol-based or waterless hand cleaners can also be used, but they don’t work well to remove some coral slimes…particularly oily type slimes.  Generally they can be used between handling different colonies of the same species but it is best to use a soap based product when changing species types.

 

 

Battery Cleaning Brush or Plug Hole Wire Brush: A small wire brush used to clean the inside of a coral adapter plug hole if the artificial reef module has been deployed more than a few days before planting a plug.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bolt Cutters: Bolt cutters are used to fragment thick corals such as Elkhorn, pillar corals and for extracting propagation “tears” from brain corals.

 

Bone Breaker: A tool used by surgeons to cut bone during surgery that is used in the fragging process.  It is particularly well adapted to the thicker trunks of finger corals.

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RBF Coral Antiseptic Dip:  To reduce rapid tissue necrosis and other bacterial infections that can occur due to the fragging wound, hard corals are dipped in an antiseptic solution just before plugging.  The RBF version is a veterinary strength betadine or Lugol's  solution.  It is possible to use over the counter strengths but the amount needed will change the salinity of the dip and this must be adjusted with artificial sea salt (available at any marine aquarium store).  Doing so will require a hydrometer (specific gravity meter) or refractometer.  Do not use fresh water to mix RBF Antiseptic dip.  RBF Antiseptic dip must be diluted in fresh seawater, Additionally it must be kept at the same temperature as the sea, and may need to be buffered to the same pH as the natural seawater if maintained longer than 2 hours.   Salinity must also be similar to seawater, but this will not be a problem if mixed with seawater at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 8 ounces of seawater that is the normal dosing rate for an average growth rate coral.  Very slow growing hard corals are dosed at a lower rate, Acropora and other fast growing corals may need a slightly higher dosage rate.  Soft corals are not usually treated.  The only part of the coral colony that should be exposed to the dip is the fragmentation injury site.  This will be clearly visible as exposed white coral skeleton.  Proper treatment will stain the white skeleton to a slightly yellow color.  If a yellow color does not show up after dipping, it is possible the corals have been over handled and the protective slime coating generated during the handling has migrated over the exposed skeleton.  It is not necessary to remove this slime to apply the dip because the slime itself is somewhat protective against RTN but advise all coral handlers to reduce the coral stress levels.  Ideally, corals should only be exposed to air one time during the entire process (when they are set into the rapid setting coral plug cement).  Typically, over-slimed corals can be tracked back to careless fragmenting…a procedure that must be carried out delicately to reduce coral stress.

 

NOTE: Fire Corals and Soft Corals should NEVER be dipped in iodine solution.

 

RBF Coral Epoxy Putty: A two part epoxy stick with a specific viscosity that allows for easy underwater mixing, yet stiff enough to hold coral plug in place until it hardens.  RBF coral epoxy putty comes in a 10-minute and a 30-minute setting formulation.  10-Minute is better for larger fragments that are prone to dislodging during wave surges but requires more frequent mixing and is therefore less efficient and prone to waste.  30-minute formulation is standard.  If you choose a non-RBF brand, be sure to test that they are not toxic to corals.  (Testing can be done in a marine reef tank).  (Do not use Devcon branded epoxy for that reason.)  If the brand you choose is too thick, it will be very time consuming and difficult to mix underwater.  If it is too thin, it will not hold the plugs in place.  If it is too sticky, it will be difficult to remove from your hands.  If not sticky enough, it will not bond well.  Expect some staining of your dive suit and dive gear whatever brand you choose.

 

RBF Coral Tool Kit: An orange colored tool kit that contains items such as fragmentation tools (bone cutter, wire cutter, wire stripper, bolt cutter, hack saw, etc.), latex gloves, RBF Coral Antiseptic Dip, RBF Coral Epoxy Putty, RBF Plug Cement w/ADVA Flow,  mixing sticks, container for mixing plug cement, medicine cups, container for water/ADVA Flow mixture, submersible thermometer,  container for antiseptic dip, oil free sun block, antibacterial soap,  battery brush, hand brush, plug twine,  dissolved oxygen (DO) test kit and other misc. items that may be required for coral propagation table operation.

 

Coral Curing and Planting Tray:

 

A wooden tray designed to hold plugs during curing under the coral propagation table and doubles as a carrying tray when inserted into a plastic laundry basket or egg crate for planters.  Embedded dive weights make the tray negatively buoyant. (diagram below)

 

 

Coral Propagation Table:

Either a beach based (as show above) or floating platform (as shown below) used for fragging, plugging and plug curing. A complete 3-d engineering plan can be obtained without cost by downloading Google’s free Sketchup (www.sketchup.com) then right clicking on the second icon from the right to “get model” and search for keyword “Coral Propagation Table.”  An umbrella or tarp is necessary to shield coral fragments from sunburn.  Careful attention should be made to ensure table stability in waves.  We have made a wide variety of variations to accommodate individual project needs.  It is important to consider the number of coral propagations you plan, the conditions at the work site, and the number of people that will be working before designing your table.  A good table increases the comfort for human workers and makes higher volume outputs easier but it can take longer to build and be more expensive.  A small table workspace can be made just about anywhere but may be uncomfortable and slow for production.  If you are just demonstrating the technology for a school, that might be sufficient.  If you plan to do tens of thousand of plugs.,.go high tech with all the bells and whistles.  Cup holders are nice!

 

kathy2_003

 

 

 

 

Reef Coral Identification by HumannCoral Reference Books:

Corals of Australia and the Indo-Pacific by VeronThe Coral Team uses Reef Coral Identification by Paul Humann and Ned Deloach as a standard reference for the Caribbean and Corals of Australia and the Indo-Pacific by J.E.N. Veron for the Pacific.  If you have deeper pockets, Veron has a 3 volume Corals of the World series.  Typically, the team will supplement with local reference books depending upon location. Standard Coral Team culture is to use the common name first, followed by the scientific name second, if known.  This helps everyone to learn the scientific names and does not embarrass those still learning.

 

 

 

Disaster Nursery Supplies: After storms, ship groundings, anchor drops and other disasters, there is often a significant amount of damaged corals and no practical way to re-attach them.  In these cases, concerned divers can create a medium term disaster nursery to preserve the coral genetics impacted by the disaster.  These nurseries must be able to keep the corals alive long enough to build and deploy the chosen artificial substrate and to activate a Coral Team.  A Disaster Nursery is designed hold coral up to about one year.  The nursery is a very simple welded steel frame with “chicken” wire across the upper surfaces.  The shape is usually triangular so that it can be tossed over a boat and will always lands upright.  Deployment is best over a sandy, non-live bottom because you may need to anchor the nursery if it will be needed for more than a few weeks.  Screw anchors available at hardware stores for anchoring sheds can be used on sandy bottoms and screw into the seafloor easily.

 

Try to collect enough fragmentable coral for 3 plugs from each adult coral colony that is impacted.  If possible, create 3 separate nurseries, duplicating the original effort in case a storm or other unforeseen accident occurs on one of the nurseries.  If possible, use digital still photography and a monitoring frame to record the donor colony and the fragable coral saved.  Attach the coral to the chicken wire using zip ties or wire.  Make sure each colony does not touch a surrounding colony, and allow for growth depending upon the length of expected nursery stay.  Look for the healthiest coral tissues possible and do not nursery any diseased corals.  You can use the area under and around the nursery to store smaller adult colonies that need to be re-attached by hydrostatic methods such as softball or smaller brain corals.

 

 

Dissolved Oxygen (DO) Test Kit:  Lamotte makes one of the most easy to use DO kits and it typically can be found for under US$50.  Be sure to follow instructions carefully to get an accurate measurement.  A  dissolved oxygen test is used to  confirm DO levels are over  4.5 mg/l in which case it is safe to conduct coral fragmenting and coral table operations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fire Coral Mitt: Fire corals (Millapora) are sometimes desirable to propagate due to the types of fish that use them for protection.  Simple latex gloves can tear when performing hand fragmentation (fragmentation without a fragmentation too).  The Reef Ball Coral Team occasionally uses a special silicon mitt for this task.   Typically, Reef Balls are planted monolithically with fire corals and only a few plugs are required because most fire corals grow and spread very fast.  In a calm sea, just laying a few fire coral fragments on a Reef Ball may be enough to get them started even without plugging. 

 

 

Hand Brush: Lessmann Universal Hand Brush - Steel Crimped A hand wire brush is used to clean the area adjacent to the coral adapter plug whole before planting on an artificial reef module that has been deployed for more than a few days.  This provides space for the coral to base and attach itself to the artificial substrate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hacksaw: Sometimes compression tools cannot be used and a hacksaw is needed for fragmenting.  A hacksaw can also be used to make a scar line so that compression cutting follows the line.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Hydrometer or Specific Gravity Meter:

A hydrometer is an inexpensive way to approximate salinity or the amount of salt dissolved in seawater. You can get one at any saltwater marine aquarium store.  It can be used to check the salinity of the Antiseptic dip if you are not using veterinary strength solutions.  It can also be useful if you are working where freshwater runoff can affect the conditions at your nurseries or coral propagation table.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Monitoring Frame: A PVC camera guide marked with metric and English scales.  Used to position the camera over coral plugs to take standardized monitoring photos.  Advanced users will add movable “luggage tags” with numbers or letters to encode variables such as artificial reef module identifier, date, or coral colony identifier.  Length of rod varies by camera used.  Length should be adjusted with camera in wide-angle (non-zoomed) position.  When taking monitoring photos make sure camera is in the same position.  Most monitors prefer a frame that is neutral or slightly negatively buoyant.  Gravel can be put inside the frame for this purpose.  Frame should have small holes drilled into it for water to flow in and out.

 

 

 

 

Oil Free Sun Block: RBF Coral Team members are required to protect themselves from sunburn.  Loss of a team member function due to sunburn can disrupt typically tight project timelines.  However, most sun care products contain oil that can contaminate the coral propagation table.  Therefore, Team members are required to use Oil Free Sun Blockers (typically in spray formats that make frequent applications easier).  A commonly used brand is Neutrogena Healthy Defense Oil-Free Sun block Spray, SPF 30 or higher.

 

 

RBF Plug Cement: A mixture of hydrostatic cement and microsilica and optional proprietary ingredients used for plugging. Here’s the label on the bucket:

 

RBF Disk & Plug Mix

· Makes Disks or Plugs for use with the

Special holes created in your Reef Balls

by the coral attachment adaptors

· Can also be used to attach plaques, scientific
markers, etc. to Reef Balls.    

· Can be used for in situ coral resetting (Hydrostatic Method)

· Contains WR Grace Force 10,000

· Sets in 3 minutes                                                      
· Can be used for one step creation of a plug  with a live coral fragment embedded in the mix.

 

 

 

Warning! Skin and eye irritant. May contain silicon dioxide, silica fume, very finely ground Portland cement, crushed coralline algae, calcium hydroxide, sugar and/or Adva Flow.  Your skin may be sensitive to cement.  Wearing rubber gloves is recommended.  Avoid contact with eyes or prolonged contact with skin.  In case of contact, flush thoroughly with water.  For eyes, flush with clean water for at least 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention. Keep out of reach of children. Warning! Contains silica fumes and silicon dioxide, do not breath dust. Prolonged exposure to silicon dust can lead to siliceous of the lungs.  We recommend wearing a dust mask when working with silica fumes or this product. Eye protection is also recommended.

 

For use at an RBF Coral Table to embed corals, use mixing instructions from your table boss for the specific type of coral you are working with.For making plugs for non-embedded attachment of corals::  Add 3 drops of  W. R. Grace ADVA FLOW high range water reducer and super-plastisizer (contained within the package in a 1 oz bottle) to 3 oz by volume of product.  Prepare your disk or plug mold (4 disks or 2 plugs) and then add with 1 oz of water.  Mix rapidly and completely and pour IMMEADIATELY into your disk or plug molds.    De-mold in 3 minutes and place in fresh water for curing overnight before attaching hard or soft corals. 

 

Attaching Corals to Disks or Plugs that CANNOT be embedded:Disks prepared with this product can be used as a base to attach hard and soft corals with a variety of methods.  These include RBF Super Glue Gel, Bridal Veil method (fleshy soft corals), monofilament method, and others.  For all these attachment methods, allow coral to grow out over the plug for a natural attachment in a protected area before attaching plug or disk to your Reef Ball.

 

 

 

Refractometer: A refractometer is a more sophisticated way than indirect specific gravity meters to measure exact salinity or the amount of salt dissolved in seawater. They don’t suffer from different reading in different temperature ranges either. They are available from professional environmental monitoring suppliers.  It can be used to check the salinity of the Antiseptic dip if you are not using veterinary strength  iodine solutions.  It can also be useful if you are working were freshwater runoff can affect the conditions at your nurseries or coral propagation table.  A refractometer is very useful for Red Mangrove projects because salinity must be closely monitored.  Simply put a drop on the lens of the water you want to sample and look into the scope for the reading.  Note: Must be calibrated with distilled water before use.

 

 

Secchi Disk: An 8 inch disk with alternating black and white quadrants used to determine a standard visibility in water.

 

Markings or knots on the rope normally signify distance.  The disk is lowered into the water until it disappears and the depth recorded, then raised until it re-appears and the depth recorded.  The two depths are averaged and this becomes the Secchi visibility.   Usually, the color of the water is also noted.

 

 

Submersible Thermometer A thermometer is used to check the temperature of the antiseptic dip and to check the nurseries & coral table plug curing areas.  The thermometer is also used to take ambient water temperatures to make sure temperatures don’t exceed 30C (86 degrees Fahrenheit) which is the point were fragmentation and plugging activities need to be stopped unless a Dissolved Oxygen test can be conducted to confirm DO levels are over 4.5 mg/l (in which case it is possible to continue).  If a DO test kit is not available, a rule of thumb is that If it is windy and there is good circulation it will probably be okay, if it is calm or poor circulation it is likely dangerous to proceed.  In fact, on calm days or in low circulation environments DO testing should begin at 28 C or 81 degrees Fahrenheit. 

 

 

Sugar: Sugar acts to slow down the setting speed of concrete (retarder) and it can be used in cases where the fast setting plug cement goes off too quickly.  Sugar water is used on concrete artificial reef molds to create a rough surface texture with exposed aggregates that encourages natural settlement of larval corals  (the surface must be rinsed with water immediately after de-molding to gain this effect).

 

 

 

Waterproof Papers and Field Books:  Coral Team members often need waterproof paper for underwater monitoring forms and field books for recording data.  You will find these and other specialty field items like sand grain distribution sorters, refractometers, and survey equipment at http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wire Cutters: A tool used for fragging, typically for small finger corals.

 

 

 

 

Wire Strippers: A tool used during the fragging process for woody-stemmed soft corals (gorgonians).  This tool is used to strip back the flesh at the base of a propagated stem exposing enough of the woody stem to be embedded in the plug for a firm attachment.  Care must be taken to hold the soft coral broadly so that there is no crush injury.  Automatic wire strippers can be used on some soft coral types to avoid this potential injury.

 

 

 

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

Comply with all OSHA and all other regulations. You'll need at a minimum safety glasses, rubber gloves, hard hat, lung protection, steel toed shoes, protective clothing, and a first aid kit.

SPARE PARTS

We suggest the following extra parts as a "SAVE A REEF BALL KIT" Note that all molds systems sold after June 2002 have mold spare parts (bolded) automatically included.

The following diagram will help you identify parts and part names.
Assembly 

(Newest systems have mold size appropriate square plates)

materials(apendix1)_files <--Click here for photos of parts

 

CONCRETE CONSIDERATIONS

What is Concrete Slump

Concrete slump is a measure of how thick the concrete is.  Imagine a cone used to mark highways that is 15 inches tall is filled with concrete.  Place this on the ground and remove the cone....the number of inches that the concrete "slumps down" is the "Slump"...so a 9 inch slump is very liquidly where a 2 inch slump is almost clay like.  Testing with a slump cone is one way to determine if you have the right slump for pouring your molds...but with experience you will know from how the concrete looks and pours into your molds.

Molds can be used with any concrete mix that meets these basic requirements:

                -Aggregate/Slump Adjustment

1) If Aggregate used is round and smooth, subtract 1 inch from recommended slumps
2) If Aggregate is larger than pea gravel, but less than 1 inch add 1/2 inch to the recommended slumps
3) If aggregate is 1 inch (or larger), add 1 inch to recommended slumps
4) If aggregate is square or mixed in sizes and jagged, add 1 inch to the recommended slumps
5) If final slump is higher than the recommended range for Super Ball or larger sized mold pouring, pour the larger balls in two stages with 30 minutes between pouring to avoid a cold joint but to allow for less upward pressure on the center bladder caused by high slump mixes.  Use caution with Ultra sized Reef Balls with high slump mixes as the center bladder might rise and make an Ultra Ball with a very heavy bottom and thin top.        

 

Super/Ultra/Reef Ball

Pallet Ball

Bay Ball and all smaller sizes

Floating Deployment

6,500+

6,000+

5,000+

Barge Deployment

6,000+

4,500+

4,000+

To remove from mold

750+

750+

750+

To lift from base

1,500+

1,200+

1,000+

THESE ARE RECOMMENDED STRENGTHS-NOT SPECIFICATIONS. THEY ARE INTENDED TO REDUCE BREAKAGE WITH TYPICAL HANDLING PROCEDURES. BARGE STYLE DEPLOYMENTS MAY TOLERATE LOWER STRENGTHS WHEN HANDLED PROPERLY. FLOATING DEPLOYMENTS SHOULD BE VERY CAUTIOUS OVER NATURAL REEFS WHEN STRENGTHS ARE LESS THAN RECOMMENDED REQUIREMENTS. EXPERIENCED USERS MAY FIND THAT REMOVAL FROM THE MOLDS AND BASES CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED AT SLIGHLY LOWER STRENGTHS IF CARE IS TAKEN.

In general, the less Portland Cement used the better the pH will be, so if you can get away with a lower PSI concrete mix design and not experience breakage it is better for coral settlement.  However you should always maximize microsilca use and minimize concrete use to get the desired PSI. Microsilca can double the strength of any PSI mix design.

The concrete MAY NOT use any of the following:

The mix design could use the following:

A special note on the pH of concrete and microsilica:

Most concrete will come out of the mold with a pH of 12-16. Over time, in a fresh water bath or when exposed to rain, the pH will begin to fall. The pH of the ocean is between 8.3 and 8.4 and many marine species will not take up residence on the modules until the pH at the surface of the reef balls is at or near of the pH of the surrounding environment. This is particularly true for hard corals that are very pH sensitive in their larval stages. The use of microsilica at a MAXIMUM of 30% to the weight of the Portland cement used will bring the pH of reef balls submerged in an open oceanic system within range for nearly immediate settlement by corals (at 30% most calcium hydroxide will be reacted and the permeability of concrete is very low). However, 30% is not cost effective and through extensive testing, we have found that 10% is the most practical in terms of a cost/benefit ratio.  Less than 30% by weight to Portland will still give a marked decrease in surface pH and is highly desirable. We recommend 50 pounds per yard to be used for deployments where hard corals are targeted for recruitment. When microsilica is not used, and you intend to place your modules in waters that support hard corals, several months in the rain or several weeks in a fresh water bath are suggested to increase coral growth...this will at least reduce the amount of unreacted calcium hydroxide which creates very high pH but it will not increase the permeability of your concrete. . Microsilica also has a strength benefit. Fifty pounds of Microsilica per yard of concrete will generally double the PSI of the starting mix. Anytime you use more than 50 pounds of Microsilica per yard of concrete, you should add fibers to the mix to avoid micro cracking that is common to high microsilica concrete mixes because it makes concrete shrink when curing.

 

pH and Microsilica....a Scientific Explanation; 

The scientific explanation of why microsilica gives a better pH for coral settlement is a bit complex.  There are two factors at work.  1st, when concrete reacts, it forms cement (pH of about 12) and a left over byproduct, calcium hydroxide (pH of about 14-16+).  Microsilica directly reacts with calcium hydroxide to form a second kind of "glue" which is why microsilca concrete is stronger than regular concrete.  This gets your concrete to a much lower pH to start with.  

However, Microsilica doe not change the pH of the concrete, per say, but rather affects the permeability of concrete which affects the rate at which negative ions (pH is a measurement of ion concentration) leach from concrete.  Therefore, in a closed system microsilica would only delay reaching a pH equilibrium of the concrete, whereas in an open oceanic system, the delay results in lower pH at the surface of the concrete where corals settle.

It has been scientifically documented (<--click here for report) that settlement by marine life is closer to natural settlement rates on Microsilica concrete compared to regular concrete.

Some clients resist the use of microsilica because it can increase the price of a yard of concrete by as much as $20-30. However, there are a few other benefits that should be considered before making the decision not to use microsilica. First is the durability and abrasion resistance of concrete. Salt water ions are hard on concrete and over time will degrade concrete. Microsilica reduces the permeability of the concrete and helps it resist ionic attack. Microsilica also increases the abrasion resistance of concrete. For this reason, microsilica increases the expected life of the reef. With a full dose of 50 or more pounds per yard, one can expect the modules to last well over five centuries (engineering life) even in waters where hard corals do not exist to build up the modules (hard corals help the modules to develop natural abrasion resistance). With 25 pounds per yard, once can still expect durability to last over 2 centuries. With 10 pounds per yard, one could expect about 100 or more years. Without microsilica the durability of concrete can decrease in just 20-40 (5-15 for Type I concrete) years. Another important consideration is breakage. Heavy equipment and rough barge deployments (including dropping modules on top of each other) can break modules. The more microsilica used, the more resistance to breakage your modules will have. (This is more important with Reef Balls than other concrete structures that contain rebar for breakage resistance.) Given the time and effort it takes to build a reef, a small investment in microsilica can really payoff in terms of the number of modules that make it to the site intact.

Freshwater applications do not benefit as much from the reduced pH since freshwater reefs function mainly as fish shelters or current reduction devices rather than the basis for a food chain. However, algae and other life that attaches to freshwater reefs may still be important and the other benefits of microsilica certainly make it worth considering.

CASE STUDY- REEF BALL SCULPTURE PARK IN COZUMEL

In Nov. of 1995, Reef Ball supervised the construction of 15 artistic sculptures to be used underwater along with 7 Bay Balls (two with sculptures but into the top of the bay balls).  Reef Ball supervised the first 6 sculpture and the 7 Bay Balls, then we left the remaining 8 sculptures to be built by artists.  In Aug. of 2002, we monitored the site.  The 7 Bay Balls and first 6 sculptures all had 100% hard coral cover and were in perfect shape, the remaining 8 sculptures built after we left had all collapsed with only rubble on the ground.  What happened?  They stopped using Micro silica and the other Reef Ball admixtures to save money.  The total project budget, using all volunteers was $50,000...1/2 the sculptures were lost within just a few years to save maybe $500 in concrete admixtures...get the point? 

 

CONSIDERATIONS FOR USING END OF DAY CONCRETE WASTE (POUR OUT)

Many of our clients use EOD (End of Day) waste to construct Reef Balls as a way of saving money on concrete, and as a way of using a material that would otherwise go to our landfills. Since the year 2000, this practice has been declining because concrete companies are getting more efficient at recycling and avoiding waste.  If you are lucky enough to have some available, here are some general guidelines for EOD waste:

GETTING YOUR MOLDS READY FOR YOUR FIRST POUR

Your molds need to be set up since they will be disassembled for shipping. The first pour is usually accompanied by a Reef Ball trainer, but in the event one is not present note the following:

1) New molds have a wax left on them from the fiberglass manufacturing process; therefore the sugar water will not stick as well the first few uses.  We recommend two coats of sugar water on the mold surfaces (allowing the first one to dry) before the first castings.

2) New molds will often make some cracking noises during the first few uses...this is normal as the flanges break in...they are designed with some spring to help them last longer in the field.

3) Inflate all inflatable before first use and check for leaks.  We cannot replace defective inflatable parts once they have been used in concrete be careful when opening the boxes with the Polyform buoys so your box cutter does not slice the buoys.

The molds do not come with the base needed for use (shipping costs would be prohibitive). So your first task will be the assembly of a plywood, steel or concrete base. (Also See Appendix For Concrete or Steel Bottoms)

 

PLYWOOD BASE CONSTRUCTION

A base can be constructed of plywood, steel, or concrete, but plywood is often used because it is portable, relatively inexpensive, and can be made with readily available materials and tools.

We recommend the use of form-oiled plywood that is designed for building concrete forms and will not stick to the concrete (sometimes referred to as Marine Grade Plywood). Additionally, the oil inside the plywood resists weathering so your base will last for hundreds of castings. (If form oiled plywood is not available, then we recommend that you seal regular plywood with vegetable oil, lard, or other non-toxic paint or finish.)

The first step is to build a flat surface of the following dimensions:

Super/Ultra/Reef Ball

Pallet Ball

Bay Ball, Mini-Bay, Lo Pro or Oyster

8 feet Square

5 Feet, 6 Inches Square or 8 feet Square

4 Feet Square

Since plywood is usually available in 4 feet by 8 feet sections,  Bay Ball and smaller molds bases surfaces by cutting a single sheet of 3/4 inch form oiled plywood in the appropriate size. However, Pallet Ball and larger molds need overlapping sheets (double thick) and using deck screws to join them. We recommend 3/4 inch plywood but close metric sized will also work.  Pins heads will require countersinking on the bottom layer of plywood and will be “sandwiched” in place.  Therefore if you plan to use more than one base for each mold, don’t forget to order additional pins.

IF YOU ARE BUILDING ON A COMPLETELY FLAT SURFACE (SUCH AS CONCRETE) YOU DO NOT NEED TO ADD THE LUMBER ACROSS THE BOTTOM FOR SUPPORT.  IF YOU ARE BUILDING ON SAND OR OTHER UNEVEN SURFACE THEN PROCEED WITH THE LUMBER INSTRUCTIONS BELOW.

These diagrams on the next few pages are one (very old) example of a way to build bases for uneven surfaces...note some of the " and ' markings are reversed by accident.  We HIGHLY recommend that you wait for your trainers to build bases as redoing them is time consuming and sometimes a waste of materials.

PLANS FOR SUPER/ULTRA/REEF BALL BALL CASTING BASE

(View: Upside Down Aerial)

 

PLANS FOR PALLET BALL CASTING BASE

(View: Upside Down Aerial)

or SCREW YOUR BASES TO OLD WOODEN PALLETS AND SCREW THEM DOWN TIGHT WITH FLAT HEAD SCREWS.

The plans shown are suggested requirements to be able to construct a full range of Reef Ball sizes...in general if you are building heavier than normal Reef Balls you can get away with LESS WELL BUILT BASES, and if you are building lighter than normal reef balls you will need MORE WELL BUILT BASES (NOTE: THIS IS COUNTER INTUITIVE BUT IT IS BECAUSE LIGHT BALLS REQUIRE MORE AIR IN THE CENTER BLADDER THAT PUTS MORE PRESSURE ON THE BASES), and for long term projects these are often exceeded. Also note that higher slump concretes put more pressure on the bases than lower slump concretes.  

These diagrams show various bases and will help you visualize how to make bottoms. If you find yourself standing on the edges, you can also re-enforce the overhanging plywood ledges with left over lumber. This is helpful on the larger Reef Ball where it is sometimes easier to work inside the mold from the platform. If you use 1/2 inch plywood, the re-enforcements are required for strength. (Bricks or cinder blocks can be used for temporary re-enforcement.)

After you have finished constructing the bases, look carefully for exposed nails, screws or splinters on the surface of your base. They can puncture the center bladder.   We do not recommend the use of nails, as they tend to work their way up and can damage the center bladders.

After you have constructed your base, you will need to put your mold together so it can be placed on top of your base to determine where to drill the holes for the pins. (NOTE: If you are "sandwiching" in the short pins, you will have to mark the holes for the pins and drill before you finish assembling your bases)

 

PLANS FOR BAY BALL CASTING BASE

(View: Upside Down Plan View)

ATTACHING THE SIDE BALLS TO YOUR MOLD PANELS

Depending upon the size of your mold, there are up to 3 different side balls that must be attached, A-0, A-1 Polyforms and tether balls. Tether balls fit the 1 1/4 inch holes drilled into the sides of the fiberglass mold panels. Start from the inside of the mold and push the pin (bolt) attached to the tether ball through the hole. From the outside of the mold, pull the tether until the knob with a hole in it is sticking out of the hole. Put the pin through the hole in the knob and the tether is locked in place.

 If you want to remove a tether ball to make a more solid wall, or if you are waiting on a replacement for one that has broken, just place duct tape over the hole on the inside and the outside. (Yes, that will really hold the liquid concrete in.) Polyforms need to be attached to the side panels.  Polyform A-0s and A-1s fit the larger 3-1/2 inch holes, and the A-1s fit the 6 inch holes in the mold panels. To attach a Polyform, insert the top of an inflated Polyform (not over inflated, just with enough air to take the folds out of the ball) from the inside to the outside of the mold. Place a PVC collar around the knob from the outside of the mold and insert a hollow tube pin through the hole in the knob. It is helpful to have someone pushing on the Polyform from the inside to make insertion of the pin easy. A screwdriver for leverage and a hammer to tap the hollow tube pin is helpful.

 

 

HOW MUCH DO I INFLATE THE SIDE BALLS?

Tether balls are inflated with a needle valve and an air compressor.


For mold use, the tethers should be at "normal" inflation levels.   Tethers should be soft enough to grab with one hand and you should be able to squeeze the ball with one hand to make an indention. This will insure an easy removal from the module.

If your mold has Polyform side balls, you don't need to worry about ease of removal because they are deflated before the mold panels are removed.

Polyform A-0s & A-1s are inflated (to about 8-13 inches for the A-0, 13-16 inches for A-1s ) by unscrewing the screw caps and adding air by a compressor. The side Polyform balls have a one way valve in them so that they stay inflated even before you put the screw cap back on them. (However, always put the screw caps back on before casting because even a small leak can ruin the hole and perhaps trap the Polyform in the concrete.) Near the bottom of the molds, you'll want to inflate them a bit more to make sure the hole they create goes all the way through the module's wall. HOWEVER, ONCE YOU OVER INFLATE A POLYFORM, IT WILL DEVELOP A "MEMORY" AND WILL TEND TO INFLATE TO THE LARGER SIZE FROM THEN ON. If you want a large hole, you can put as much as 10% more air than normal to make them up to 14 inches across. Remember that it's a one way trip, so be sure that's what you want. WARNING: IF YOU ATTEMPT TO INFLATE A-0s TOO MUCH, THE VALVE MAY EXPLODE BACK AT YOU LIKE A BULLET. IT IS POSSIBLE TO GET MORE THAN 10 INCHES, BUT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS SHOULD BE TAKEN.